Our Walk Today

Anyone who comes to Porthmadog, and is culturally inclined, must add Portmeirion to their schedule. So we did just that today, and in the process added some extra experiences into the mix. Much to my "ferro-equinological" delight, we had to cross Madocks's Cob; this meant I could take some pictures of the famous Ffestiniog narrow gauge motive power. Others in our party were most understanding! Thank you! A scenic footpath then led to Portmeirion, which, of course, we chose to visit in the morning because we thought the Bank Holiday crowds, being Saturday, would build up in the afternoon.

At Portmeirion we bask in the culture and the sunshine.

Culturally refreshed we then made for some wooded country before reaching Garreg in the dry part of the Afon Glaslyn Estuary. A local tea shop awaited us. Then we aimed for the Aberdunant Hall Hotel and some picturesque cross-country paths affording good views. Some of these paths appeared on the OS® map but had disappeared in reality - i.e. were overgrown and largely unmarked. Notwithstanding, we negotiated a steep descent with notices reminding us about falling rocks. We were only three minutes behind schedule for our group meal in Tremadog. For his sins, Eric was the walk leader - well, I had proposed the walk after all! All this and cloud-free skies!!

We may have walked for at least a mile around Portmeirion.
I mean, there was so much to see.

By the way, I measured the total length of our walk to be just over 14 miles (see Link). However, this includes our perambulations around Portmeirion, which could have amounted to at least a mile. In addition, GPS systems have been known to differ in their results for a given walk. I say this, although I think that Garmin® Satnavs, being dedicated devices may score better in the accuracy stakes than (e.g.) Android® devices. I don't stake my life on these things. It's not worth it!

Morning

On our first morning in "Prince of Wales" country, the sun shone on the hills to the south of the Welsh chapel which we spoke about yesterday and which we saw from our residence. Breakfast would be followed by our 08:45 meeting to see who was considering what for the day. The rising sun suggested that walks would be the main focus of our day.

Y Capel Presbyteraidd.

Heritage & Vintage Steam

Our Portmeirion walk started out - as it really had to for geo-spatial reasons - along the famous Cob. We passed, often at close quarters, a range of Ffestiniog motive power, getting ready for the Bank Holiday tourist trains. Two double-ended Fairlies, one single-ended Fairlie and one L&B (Manning Wardle) new-build. Even "Criccieth Castle", the 0-6-0 diesel, put in an appearance. What a show! The mountains towards Blaenau had a dusting of snow. Very nice! Eventually we found our scenic Portmeirion Path with an initial walk through Boston Lodge (Ffestiniog Railway) Works thrown in! "Boston" as in "Boston, Lincolnshire" - thank you William Madocks (see yesterday)!

A double-ended Fairlie prepares to take its train to Blaenau Ffestiniog.




The mountains towards Blaenau Ffestiniog have a dusting of snow. Very pretty!




The next train is leaving for Blaenau Ffestiniog! Bon Voyage!




Motive power reinforcements
- a single-ended Fairlie coupled to a double-ended Fairlie
- come from Boston Lodge ...




... and head across the Cob to Porthmadog Station.
More tourists to be transported to Blaenau. It's "busy season"!




This is a recent new-build of one of the famous 2-6-2T Manning-Wardles that used to ply
Devon's Lynton & Barnstaple Railway west of Minehead in Somerset.

Views towards Porthmadog

We re-joined the Wales Coast Path behind the Boston Lodge Works. As we gained height, we enjoyed the view towards the West over Porthmadog. The yellow flowers on the gorse bushes were a pleasant addition to the scene. The sky was almost cloudless. It was definitely time for a piccy or two!

Behind Boston Lodge, we take the Wales Coast Path to climb up to Portmeirion.




The south-facing panorama of Porthmadog unfolds.
Why, we can even see the Manning-Wardle crossing the Cob on its way to Porthmadog Station,
to fetch yet more tourists for their scenic journey to Blaenau Ffestiniog.




Here's yet more of Porthmadog.




And here we are with the view.




Here we are again.




Yes. We are on the Wales Coast Path.

Portmeirion - Italy in Wales

As I'm sure, many of you know, Portmeirion was the brainchild of the eccentric Clough Williams-Ellis (1883-1978). It was not enough to be eccentric. The money had to be there as well. It was, and the result is Portmeirion - an Italian Village in Wales. The village was built between 1925 and 1975/6 and played host to the "social set" of the day. Many of the buildings were kitted out to take guests from this social set and now they provide a sort of hotel function for discerning members of the paying public. Anyway, today we enjoyed this good dose of Mediterranean eccentricity in Wales. Well done, Clough! A visit to the up-market café rounded off our pleasant visit to sun-drenched Portmeirion. Memorable - as was the cheesecake in the café!

The massive gateless "Gate House" guards the entrance to Clough's Italian village.




Italian? I should remind you that we are in "Prince of Wales" country"!




As we pass beneath the Gate House, we gaze upwards to see a painting (by Feibusch).




The painting in the external ceiling of the Gate House has its artistic merit. If I surmise correctly (with some visual challenge!), the painting seems to be "gender balanced" with two gents and two ladies floating around - and all in the "all-together". Brr, they'll get cold!




Shortly after the "Gate House", the "Bridge House" greets us.
This village is well fortified!




Through the base of the "Bridge House" we start to see
the colourful Italianate delights that await us.




We come to the Prisoner Shop. Prisoner?
Yes, "The Prisoner" was the 1960's surreal 17-episode TV cult spy drama.




Onwards we walk into our (for a few hours) Mediterranean fantasy.




A must have for every Italian village - the bell tower or "campanile".
It's actually called the "Battery".




We make our way around the central gardens - sorry, "Central Piazza".




Anyone for chess? For how long have these figures stood "unplayed"?




Here is the small "Round House" flanking the steps by which we entered the village.




And here are some of our august Cloggies,
soaking up the culture and the mid-day sun.




Here they are again!




Telford's Tower looms up at the end of the Central Piazza.




I can't find a description for this rocky grandeur!




This "classic-looking" building is called "Unicorn". Why?




More "Central Piazza".




Here is the rococo-style "Triumphal Arch". It stands close to the "cheese cake café".
The arch was built to provide a "way in" for delivery vehicles, but despite this, it looks pretty.




Central Piazza from the other side.




More Central Piazza.




Two Cloggies enjoying the Central Piazza.




View across the sandy Afon Dwyryd estuary.




Portmeirion's "Town Hall".
Its "just-in-time" history of the late thirties is fascinating.




Here's another view of down-town Portmeirion
before we head for the wooded heights surrounding the village.




As we ascend the heights this view across the Afon Dwyryd estuary greets us.




Here we look back to Portmeirion village perched on the hillside.




We think we should be part of the picture. Why not?




Here is the "Dome". We have had our cultural fill of Portmeirion. Always worth another visit.
However, it will be time to continue our main walk and leave Portmeirion to the afternoon tourists -
so Sheila reminded us! And if Sheila says so - well!




Here's another view across the Afon Dwyryd estuary ...




... which looks even nicer and more Mediterranean when framed by this arch.




There's more "Mediterranean" between the "Bridge House" and the "Gate House".




For a "Final Flourish" before we leave, we pass "Cliff House".

Castelldeudraeth

Castelldeudraeth, a Victorian crenellated mansion, belonged to Williams-Ellis. Eventually in 2001, after his death, his Castell was incorporated "into the Portmeirion hotel complex". The Castell was on our route. We admired its flowers and the views across the Afon Dwyryd estuary.

Here is Castelldeudraeth - Victorian crenellations and all.




We could see across the estuary of Afon Dwyryd to Ynys Gifftan and Talsarnau.




Purple flowers of late spring added nice colour to our walk.

Estuary of the Afon Glaslyn

Culturally refreshed in Portmeirion, we passed Castelldeudraeth and made for some wooded country before reaching Garreg in the dry part of the Afon Glaslyn Estuary. At Garreg, we admired the interesting war memorial and also had a pleasant short break in Garreg's local tea shop; the latter was part of Garreg's village shop, which in turn was a sort of local community centre. We then crossed the Welsh Highland Railway, which narrow gauge railway between Porthmadog and Carnarfon is one of Britain's great scenic railway lines. A double headed train greeted us. Judging by the engines, it was probably on the long journey of almost 40 miles from Carnarfon to Blaenau.

Ahead of us, on our path through the wooded landscape,
we could see the mountains embracing Blaenau Ffestiniog.




War Memorials, of course, serve a serious purpose. As Sheila explained, in WWI, as the list of fatalities began to mount, it was felt that people should be buried in the theatres of war as opposed to bringing back their mortal remains to Britain for burial. Instead, war memorials would be placed in each of the very many communities whose residents had died in the conflict. How War Memorials were conceived and built could often be quite inventive, as Garreg's memorial showed.




At Pont Croesor we cross the Welsh Highland Railway ...




... which heads off to Beddgelert and Carnarfon.

Up & Over - Playing "Find the Path"

We finally left the flat lands of Afon Glaslyn estuary to aim for the higher ground via the Aberdunant Hall Hotel. This route was to bring as back into the centre of Tremadog. Yes, we did get back, but not after seeking paths which, while appearing on the OS® map were not marked in practice. Eventually, we found a key turning off the main track. This led close to a house but was a public path. Finally, we found a sign for Tremadog, but our challenges were still to come! Paths had petered out, but we managed to eschew a steep cliff face which turned out to be a favourite of local climbers! Eventually Jan found an official way down. It was steep and some steps were missing and we warned about falling rocks in both Welsh and English. However, with care, we made it and the stream at the bottom was crossable. An interesting experience!

Don't shout "Yorkshire Pudding" too loudly, or these bovines will run a mile.




There were nice tracks ...




... offering nice mountain views in the late sunshine.




Very scenic. However, the sheep are more interested in "munch, munch".




We have found the path to Tremadog!




It's worth a second picture.




Err, not down here.




Even if the path has disappeared, the view is nice.
Porthmadog and the golden sands are down there.




Let's look here? What about here?




Jan has found a magic gate and down we go.
Well it's steeper than the picture might suggest, and the path is not in best condition.




Anyway, it's the path.




We cross the babbling brook and reach the sunny lower ground




Tremadog awaits.

Our Evening at the "Golden Fleece"

To round off our activities at the end of our first full day, Sheila booked tables at the "Golden Fleece" in Tremadog's main square. This was a nice get-together, which, of course, also enabled us to discuss what we might wish to do the next day. We could recommend the "Golden Fleece", and indeed, many of us re-visited it on the next day.

Our meals are yet to come, but we are enjoying our beverages.




Here are some more of us- in equally happy mood (why not?) on the next table.
Tomorrow awaits.